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| INTRODUCTION |
 Batang Ai National Park is part
of the region’s largest trans-national protected
area for tropical rainforest conservation. The 24
sq km park adjoins the Lanjak-Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary
in Malaysia and the Bentuang-Karimun National Park
in Indonesia. Together these totally protected areas
cover almost 10,000 sq km and form a sanctuary for
one of the few viable orang utan populations in Borneo
(estimated at over 1,000 animals) as well as many
other endangered species. For conservation reasons,
Batang Ai National Park is the only part of this
area open to visitors, but as it has the highest
orang utan population density in central Borneo (up
to 1.7 animals per sq km), there is a good possibility
of seeing wild orang utan. However orang utan sightings
should be regarded as a bonus not as a guaranteed
experience.
| Orang
Utan In The Wild |
The Bornean orang utan
(pongo pygmaeus)
is found in the rainforests of Malaysian Borneo
(Sarawak and Sabah) and Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan).
The Sumatran orang utan, recently identified
as a separate species, is found in similar
habitats in North Sumatra, Indonesia. Orang
utans are one of the world’s largest
primates, and are almost completely arboreal
(tree living). The word “orang” is
Malay for “person” whilst “utan” is
derived from “hutan” meaning forest.
Thus, orang utan literally translates as “person
of the forest”.
A mature male has large check pads and a pendulous
throat sac. Adult males can reach a height
of 150 cm (5 ft), weigh up to 100 kg (220lbs)
and have an arm span of 240 cm (8 ft). Females
are about three quarters of the height and
half the weight of the males. Both sexes are
covered with long reddish hair. Orang utan
have a low reproductive rate - females reach
sexual maturity at 12 years of age but generally
don’t have their first
offspring until two or three years later, usually
giving birth to a single infant once every
7-8 years. Males reach sexual maturity at 15
but their cheek pads may not fully develop
until a few years later. The life expectancy
of orang utan in the wild is unknown but is
thought to be less than in captivity, where
some have lived to over 50 years of age.
Orang utan are primarily fruit eaters and spend
most of the day roaming the forest foraging for
food. They are particularly fond of wild figs
and the pungent smelling durian. Although fruit
is their most important source of food, they
also feed on young leaves, insects, bark, flowers,
eggs and small lizards. Each individual builds
a new nest each night - and occasionally for
a daytime nap - a safe resting place 12-18 metres
(40-60 ft) up in the roof of the forest.
Wild orang utan are generally solitary. However,
adolescents often gather in pairs and females
occasionally form temporary groups of four
or five. This rather lonely existence stems
both from the relative scarcity of food in
the rainforest and from a lack of predators.
A mature adult roams a vast area of forest
every day in order to find enough food to satisfy
its healthy appetite. Its huge size also eliminates
the need for ‘group
defence’.
Both orang utan species are highly endangered,
and are totally protected by law in Malaysia,
Indonesia and internationally. Today, there are
an estimated 20-27,000 orang utan left in the
wild (perhaps 20,000 or so in Borneo and the
rest in Sumatra). Deforestation, human encroachment
on their habitat, indiscriminate hunting and
the live animal trade: all are factors that have
contributed to a decline in their numbers. To
gain a better understanding of the orang utan
and re-introduce rescued animals into the wild,
both the Indonesian and Malaysian authorities
have set up rehabilitation programmes.
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| Other Wildlife |
 Batang Ai National Park is also home to
other primates, including Bornean gibbons whose
whooping calls can often be heard in the park,
white-fronted langurs, maroon or red langurs,
long tailed macaques, pig-tailed macaques,
and the nocturnal western tarsier and slow
loris. Other mammals include the rare and elusive
clouded leopard, two species of civet cat,
sun bears, bearded pigs, barking deer, sambar
deer, mouse deer, martens, weasels, otters,
porcupines and giant squirrels, as well as
a host of smaller squirrels, other rodents
and tree shrews. With the exception of the
macaques, most of these animals are shy and
hard to spot.
Five
of Sarawak’s eight hornbill species
are found in Batang Ai, including the spectacular
rhinoceros hornbill, Sarawak’s state
bird, which is believed by the local Iban community
to act as messenger between men and gods. Ground
birds include the great argus pheasant, Bulwer’s
pheasant, crested and crestless firebacks,
crested partridges and nightjars. There are
a host of canopy-dwelling birds, which are
easier heard than seen - varieties of cuckoos,
tree swifts, trogons, bulbuls (15 species),
drongos, barbets, woodpeckers, babblers (17
species), shamas, flycatchers, fantails, flowerpeckers,
sunbirds, spiderhunters, bristleheads and the
rare Malaysian honeyguide. Amongst the other
birds present are two species of kingfisher,
which are regarded as omen birds by the local
Iban population, a number of small kites and
hawks, and at the top of the food chain the
brahminy kite, believed by traditional Ibans
to be the embodiment of Singalang Burung, the
god of war.
 Other vertebrates found at Batang Ai and its
adjoining forests include 13 snake species,
12 lizard species, two types of river turtle,
spiny hill turtles, a staggering 52 species
of frog, two burrowing legless amphibians or
caecilians and over 80 species of fish. The
incredible variety of insects and other invertebrates
simply defies description.
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| Plant Life |
 Because parts of the park have been inhabited
by the Ibans for centuries, Batang Ai has a
unique mix of terrain. The park is primarily
mixed lowland dipterocarp forest, with hill
dipterocarp forest above 500m elevation, but
in the southern edge of the park there is also
old secondary forest which is on its way to
becoming primary forest, and active areas of
shifting cultivation dotted with ancient burial
grounds. The whole area has remarkable biodiversity,
with over 1,000 tree species and almost 200
herbs, shrubs and climbers recorded in Batang
Ai and the adjoining forests.
 Batang
Ai’s
biodiversity is very important for the local
Iban population, who gather over 140 different
kinds of medicinal plant from the forest, and
eat 114 varieties of wild fruit and 36 varieties
of jungle vegetable. Forest trees and plants
are also important as a source of wood, fibres,
rattan, bamboo and aromatic resins.
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| Community Involvement |
 The Iban of Batang Ai have been settled in
and around the park for over 400 years, and form
an integral part of its ecosystem. They have
historically played a major role in orang utan
conservation as they have a strict taboo against
harming these animals; some groups believe orang
utan are inhabited by the soul of departed ancestors,
whilst local legends claim that a female orang
utan taught human women the skills of midwifery.
Local communities were involved in the planning
process before the park was established in 1991,
and agreed to limit their activities in the park
to farming of previously farmed areas and sustainable
gathering of jungle produce. In return they benefit
from employment in the park, and have formed
their own community cooperative (Kooperasi Serbaguna
Ulu Batang Ai) to provide transport, accommodation
and guiding for visitors and to market their
excellent handicrafts. |
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| TREKS AND TRAILS |
 There are five trails in Batang
Ai which showcase every aspect of the park’s
terrain and vegetation, such as mixed dipterocarp
forest, old secondary forest and active shifting
cultivations areas, with ancient burial grounds scattered
around the area. Visitors must be accompanied by
a registered guide or park ranger at all times.
Trail Name |
Length |
Grade |
Time (Approx.) |
Padalai Trail |
1.8 km |
Easy |
1
hr 30 mins |
Bebiyong Trail |
4.0 km |
Easy |
2
hrs 30 mins |
Bilitong Trail |
4.6 km |
Moderate |
4 hrs |
EnggamTrail |
8.2 km |
Strenuous |
6 hrs |
Sium Trail |
7.6 km |
Strenuous |
5
hrs 30 mins |
All trails end at a pick-up point for longboat transport
back to Park HQ.
| Padalai
Trail |
The Padalai trail begins across river
from Nanga Lubang Baya longhouse, near
the Park HQ. There is a 30 metre climb
to “Pendam Sepetang”, a traditional
Iban burial ground dotted with old burial
jars. The trail then follows the main ridge
between the Lubang Baya (or crocodile pool)
and Batang Ai rivers to its highest point,
passing by pig wallows and cleared patches
in the forest floor (the dancing grounds
of the male great argus pheasant). It then
descends gradually to the top of the Wong
Padalai rapids, following the river downstream
to a picnic area and pick-up point for
longboats.
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| Bilitong
Trail |
This moderately difficult trail follows
the Padalai trail for the first kilometer,
then continues upwards along the crest
of the ridge to Tuchong Bilitong, an important
iban burial site. The remains of six tribal
leaders are interred here. The trail continues
through fine hill forest, gaining height
until it reaches Ulu Sungai Sekerong at
320 m elevation. From here, an optional
short but very steep climb leads to the
peak of Tuchong Inggai at a height of 420m.
This was an important look-out point in
headhunting days, as the fires of enemy
war parties moving up the Batang Ai river
could easily be seen. A burial jar marks
the final resting place of the warrior
Tugang, whose spirit is said to guard the
peak. The trail then descends rapidly to
the confluence of the Batang Ai and the
Lelayang stream, the pick-up point for
the boat back to Park HQ
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| Sium
Trail |
The most demanding and rewarding of Batang
Ai’s trails, the Sium trail begins
on the river bank opposite the Park HQ.
The first 2.5 km of the trail is a steady
climb to the main Sium ridge at a height
of 415 m. It then continues along the undulating
ridge, passing through pristine hill forest
until it reaches an Iban burial ground.
Shortly afterwards, it reaches its highest
point at the peak of Bukit Sium Ukap, at
an elevation of 704 m. The word “sium” in
Iban means “to sniff”, as when
climbing steep hills the Iban say they
are “sniffing the ground”.
A small area of ground has been cleared
around the survey beacon at the top of
the peak, and the unrestricted views are
spectacular. The entire hydro lake and
the surrounding forest are revealed in
a green and blue panorama, and on very
clear days the distant Danau Sentarum lakes
can be seen in Kalimantan, Indonesia. The
trail continues along the ridge for a short
distance before descending rapidly to follow
the Beritik river. A little further downstream
is a majestic Tapang (Koompassia excelsa),
its great height, white bark and broad
canopy making it one of the most spectacular
trees in the rainforest. Its broad horizontal
branches are much favoured by nesting bees,
so it is greatly prized by the Iban as
a source of honey. They would never fell
a Tapang as this is believed to cause madness,
delirium and certain death, but if a Tapang
falls in a storm or landslide, its wood
is used for making the finest, straightest
blowpipes. From here, the trail continues
along the Beritik to its confluence with
the Batang Ai, to meet the waiting boatmen
or continue on foot along the riverbank
to Park HQ.
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| Bebiyong
Trail |
The
somewhat longer Bebiyong trail leads from
the Park HQ to the Bebiyong Mit stream,
then rises gradually to a height of 280
metres, leading to a resting point just
below the ridge crest at Puncak Igau, and
offering excellent views of the surrounding
forest along they way. It than descends
rapidly to the bank of the Bebiyong Besai,
a small river with crystal clear flowing
from pool to pool over gravel beds. The
trail follows the river bank for about
1 km until the confluence with the main
Batang Ai River, the pick-up point for
the boat back to the HQ.
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| Enggam
Trail |
A long and strenuous walk for the physically
fit, the Enggam trail follows the Bebiyong
trail to its highest point at Puncak Igau.
It then branches off along the ridge, ascending
for 1.9 km through attractive hill forest
to reach Kota Enggam, a late 19th century
fortification built by the warrior chieftain
Enggam and his followers to resist the
rule of the Brooke Rajahs. Nowadays all
that can be seen is a trace of the defensive
ditch that protected Enggam’s longhouse.
The path descends steadily for 600 m to
join the picturesque Bebiyong Besai river
at Nanga Sengkulit longhouse. The trail
then follows the river, occasionally through
the stream itself, to rejoin the Bebiyong
trail at Nanga Sebabai longhouse.
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| TRAVEL NOTES |
| Entry Fees & Permits |
There is a nominal entry
fee for all National Parks in Sarawak. Check
with the National Parks Booking Office in
Kuching or the Sarawak Forestry website for
the latest fee structure.
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| Reservations & Enquiries |
National Parks Booking
Office,
Visitors Information Centre,
Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg,
93000 Kuching Sarawak,
Tel: (+6) 082 248088 Fax: (+6) 082 248087
Online booking: http://ebooking.com.my
The Visitors Information Centre is located
in the Old Courthouse Complex at the junction
of Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg, Jalan Gambier
and Main Bazaar, opposite the Kuching Waterfront.
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| Opening Hours |
| National
ParksBooking Office(Miri) |
Monday-Friday |
0800 hrs – 1800 hrs |
| Saturday, Sunday& Public Holidays |
0900 hrs – 1500 hrs |
| Batang
Ai National
Park HQ |
Daily (including Sundays & Public
Holidays) |
0800 hrs – 1230 hrs
1400 hrs - 1715 hrs |
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| Getting
There |
Batang Ai National Park is at the headwaters
of the Batang Ai and Lubang Baya rivers,
some 15km upriver from the Batang Ai Hydro
Lake. Access is by motorized traditional
longboat from the Hilton Batang Ai jetty
or the Batang Ai public jetty. There is no
public longboat service and transport should
be arranged in advance. The boat journey
is roughly 2 hours – 1 hour crossing
they hydro lake and another hour ascending
the fast-flowing Batang Ai river. At times
of low water visitors may have to jump into
the crystal clear stream and help to push
the boat through small rapids – all
part of the fascinating Batang Ai experience.
The Batang Ai hydro lake is about 275km
(or 5 hours drive) from Kuching. Most visitors
arrive as part of an organised tour group
where all transport is included. Contact
the Visitor’s Information Centre in
Kuching for a list of approved tour operators.
Independent travel to Batang Ai is difficult
but not impossible; there are regular express
buses from Kuching to Sri Aman (3 hours
30 mins), from Sri Aman there is a local
bus service to Lubok Antu (2 hrs), some 5km
from the hydro lake, and from Lubok Antu
it is usually possible to get a free ride
to the lake from one of the friendly locals.
However there is no public longboat service;
you may have to stay in Lubok Antu for a
day or two until somebody is heading to Batang
Ai. The alternative – chartering
a longboat yourself – can be prohibitively
expensive.
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| Accommodation |
There is no visitor accommodation at Batang
Ai National Park. Visitors usually stay in
one of the nearby Iban longhouses, or at
the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort, which
is roughly 1 hour 30 minsby boat from
the Park HQ. The park has no canteen facilities,
and visitors should bring enough food and
drinking water with them.
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| Further
Information |
SARAWAK FORESTRY
Tel: (+6) 082 348001 Fax: (+6) 082 488654
Toll free line: 1 800 88 2526
Website: www.sarawakforestry.com
Email: info@sarawakforestry.com
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