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| INTRODUCTION |
 Niah is one of Sarawak’s smaller national
parks, but it is certainly one of the most important,
and has some of the most unusual visitor attractions.
The park’s main claim to fame is its role as
one of the birthplaces of civilisation. The oldest
modern human remains discovered in Southeast Asia
were found at Niah, making the park one of the most
important archaeological sites in the world.
Yet there is much more to Niah than archaeology.
A vast cave swarming with bats and swiftlets; the
thriving local economy based on birds-nests and guano;
ancient cave paintings; a majestic rainforest criss-crossed
with walking trails; abundant plant and animal life
- all these and more make up the geological, historical
and environmental kaleidoscope that is Niah.
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EARLY HUMAN SETTLEMENTS |
 Niah’s importance was
first realised in 1957. The curator of the Sarawak
Museum, Tom Harrisson, led an archaeological dig
at the West Mouth of the Great Cave. The excavations
revealed plenty of evidence of human settlements
in the area; tools, cooking utensils and ornaments,
made of bone, stone or clay. The types of items
found suggested a long period of settlement reaching
back into the Palaeolithic era (the earliest part
of the stone age).
In 1958, a discovery was
made which confirmed Niah as a site of major archaeological
significance. Harrisson and his team unearthed
a skull which was estimated to be 40,000 years
old. The find was at first ridiculed by the scientific
community, for it was the skull of a modern human
(homo sapiens sapiens), and it
was widely believed that Borneo was settled much
later. However, as dating techniques improved, and
as more evidence of the settlement of Southeast Asia
and Australasia came to light, Harrisson was proved
right.
 What is most interesting about Niah, however, is
the continued human presence over tens of thousands
of years, and the sophistication of the societies
that gradually developed there. A large burial site
further into the mouth of the cave had clearly been
used from Palaeolithic times right up to the modern
era, as late as 1400 AD. The earliest graves, found
in the deepest levels, were simple shallow graves
without adornment. Yet moving up through the layers,
coffins and urns appeared, along with grave goods
such as pottery, textiles and ornaments, and even
glass and metal items, which came comparatively late
to Borneo.
The Great Cave is not the
only important archaeological site. The Painted
Cave, as its name suggests, houses detailed wall-paintings
depicting the boat journey of the dead into the
afterlife. The meaning of the paintings was explained
by the discovery of a number of “death-ships” on
the cave floor - boat-shaped coffins containing
the remains of the deceased and a selection of
grave-goods considered useful in the afterlife,
such as Chinese ceramics, ornaments and glass beads.
The death-ships have been dated as ranging between
1 AD and 780 AD, although local Penan folklore
tells of the use of death-ship burials as late
as the 19th century.
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| VISITING
THE PARK |
Niah National Park is located on the Sungai (River)
Niah, about 3 km from the small town of Batu Niah,
110 km south-west of Miri. The park was first gazetted
as a National Historic Monument in 1958, and in 1974
some 3,100 hectares of surrounding rainforest and
limestone hills were included, to form Niah National
Park. The park has a visitor centre and good accommodation,
and is very easy to get around, thanks to an extensive
network of plankwalks to and throughout the caves.
A torch (flashlight) and good walking shoes are absolutely
essential - the caves are unlit, and the plankwalk
can become slippery from the constant dripping of
water from the ceiling of the cave. A wide-brimmed
hat is desirable, for obvious reasons.
| The Great
Cave |
The Great Cave is
approximately 3.5 km from the park headquarters,
and is easily reached via the plankwalk,
which is enclosed on both sides by dense
primary rainforest. The stroll along
plankwalk is fascinating in its own right,
as you pass close to giant tapang trees
with their enormous buttressed roots, padanus plants
twice the size of a person, exquisitely
formed orchids and tree fungi.
It is worth taking your
time and walking quietly along the way,
as you may well see some of the park’s
wildlife. Colourful birds, squirrels,
lizards, butterflies and all manner of
unusual insects and invertebrates are
commonly seen. If you are lucky, you
may see monkeys (you will certainly hear
them), flying lizards and the occasional
hornbill.
The first significant
rock formation you reach is the Trader’s
Cave, which is really an extended rock
overhang rather than a cave proper. This
is where the birds nest and guano traders
conducted their business in days gone
by, hence the name.
A few minutes later,
the West Mouth of the Great Cave comes
into view, and you are left in no doubt
that this cave deserves its name. At
over 60m high and 250m wide, it is one
of the world’s most spectacular
cave entrances, leading to an even larger
chamber within. On the left of the cave
mouth, the archaeological excavations
are clearly visible. Photographers should
come prepared, as the view from the cave
mouth out over the surrounding jungle
is quite unique, and the jagged stalactites,
overhangs and dangling creepers of the
cave mouth make a dramatic frame for
a very memorable photo.
Proceeding into the
cave, the sound of disembodied voices
mingles with the squeaking of millions
of bats and swiftlets to create an eerie
atmosphere. The voices belong to the
guano collectors, who toil by the light
of paraffin lamps to collect the guano
(bird and bat excrement) covering the
cave floor. The guano is then carried
in sacks to the Sungai Niah, where it
is graded and sold as fertiliser.
BIRDS
NESTS
The guano collectors
are not the only people who earn
a living from the cave. Strategically
positioned bamboo poles, and
ladders made from ironwood (belian),
are evidence of the birds nest
collectors, local people who
have practised this dangerous
occupation for generations. The
half million swiftlets that live
in the cave make their nests
purely from their own salivary
secretions, and when the nests
are cleaned and cooked they produce
the famous birds nest soup, which
is as highly regarded in Chinese
cuisine as caviar is in the West.
Collecting the
nests from the cave ceiling is
a dangerous job, and fatalities
are not uncommon, but the price
of raw bird’s nests is so
high (over US$1,000 per kilo for
the best quality) that the risks
seem worthwhile. Obviously such
a valuable commodity is a magnet
for poachers, and over-harvesting
is a constant worry. Therefore
the caves are constantly monitored
by park management to deter illegal
collectors.
NOTE : Visitors
cannot be sure of seeing birds
nest collectors in action, as harvesting
is a seasonal activity, and is
subject to temporary bans by Sarawak
Forestry to protect swiftlet populations. |
The passage at the back of the Great
Cave leads to a large chamber known as
the Padang, where shafts of sunlight
stream down from large holes in the cave
roof to illuminate the bizarre rock formations
in the Burnt Cave (Lubang Hangus). This
is another excellent spot for taking
photos. After the Padang, you enter a
totally dark passage known as Gan Kira
(Moon Cave). This is where the torch
(flashlight) is essential – not
only to find your way but also to admire
the remarkable rock shapes and weathering
effects.
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| The Painted
Cave |
Shortly after the Gan
Kira (Moon Cave), the plankwalk emerges
into daylight and a short pathway through
the forest leads to the Painted Cave. This
is the site of the famous Niah cave paintings
and the place where the ‘death-ships’ were
found. The contents of the death-ships
have since been transferred to the Sarawak
Museum, but the cave paintings and some
of the empty death-ships can still be viewed
on the wall behind the fenced-off burial
site.
The paintings can be difficult
to see unless you allow your eyes to become
accustomed to the light. They are rendered
in red hematite and cover a long narrow
strip (approximately 30m) at the back of
the cave wall. They portray spread-eagled
human figures, probably representing warriors
and hunters, some of the animals of the
surrounding forest, and - most importantly
- longboats carrying the souls of the deceased
on the dangerous journey to the land of
the dead.
Although the burial site
at the Painted Cave is far more recent
than those at the Great Cave, it is no
less important as it offers a clear insight
into the development of the traditional
religions of Borneo. It is worth spending
some time at the Painted Cave, as the atmosphere
of the place is very tranquil and relaxing.
It is easy to understand why Niah’s
earlier inhabitants felt it was a suitable
resting place for their ancestors.
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| WILDLIFE
AND THE RAINFOREST |
If
you leave the Great Cave and return along the plankwalk
around sunset, you will see two great black clouds
intermingling. This is the nightly ‘changing of the guard’ -
half a million swiftlets are returning to their nests,
whilst half a million bats fly out to forage in the
forest. Although this is one of Niah’s most spectacular
sights, it represents only two small niches in a complex
ecosystem. One of Niah’s other notable sights
is the unusual number of luminous fungi (which can
be clearly seen from the plankwalk at night).
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| TREKS AND TRAILS |
The park has two well-marked walking trails, Bukit
Kasut Trail and Madu Trail.
| Bukit Kasut Trail |
This trail (green and white markings) leads
to the summit of Bukit Kasut. The 45 minute
walk passes through beautiful primary rainforest
before moving into Kerangas forest at the
foot of the hill. You will also see some
fascinating cliff vegetation clinging tenuously
to life in the steep limestone slopes. The
trail is a little steep but the view at the
top is worth it, offering a sweeping panorama
of the rainforest canopy. |
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| Madu Trail |
This trail (red and white markings) sticks
quite close to the banks of the Sungai Subis,
a tributary of the Sungai Niah. It takes
roughly an hour and passes through both alluvial
and peat swamp forest, leading to the foot
of Bukit Kasut. There are plenty of wild
orchids, bizarre mushrooms and giant pandanus
plants along the side of the trail. |
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| TRAVEL NOTES |
| Entry Fees & Permits |
There is a nominal entry
fee for all National Parks in Sarawak. Check
with the National Parks Booking Offices in
Kuching or Miri for the latest fee structure.
Entrance fees are paid upon arrival at the
park HQ. A permit is required for professional
photography or filming, which should be arranged
in advance with the National Parks Booking
Office in Miri.
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| The Park Headquarters |
Upon arrival visitors are required to register
at the Park HQ. There is an information centre
where video films about Niah are shown nightly
(upon request), and a cafeteria serving a range
of local and western food and drinks.
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| Reservations & Enquiries |
National Parks Booking Office
c/o Visitors Information Centre
Lot 452, Jln Melayu, 98000 Miri,
Sarawak, Malaysia.
Tel: 085-434184 Fax: 085-434179
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| Opening Hours |
| National Parks Booking Office |
Monday-Friday |
0800 hrs – 1700 hrs |
| Saturday, Sunday& Public Holidays |
Closed |
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| Further Information |
SARAWAK FORESTRY
Tel: (+6) 082 610088 Fax: (+6) 082 610099
Toll free line: 1 800 88 2526
Website: www.sarawakforestry.com
Email: info@sarawakforestry.com
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| Getting
There |
Niah is within easy reach of both Miri (109
km) and Bintulu (131 km).
From Miri: Syarikat Bas Suria has a regular
bus service to Batu Niah from the Miri Bus
Station. The journey time is 1 hr 40 mins.
Share taxis from the Bus Station are available,
as are regular taxis, which can usually be
chartered on a daily basis. A number of tour
operators can arrange guided tours to the
park. Self-drive cars are also available
- ask at your hotel counter or check in the
yellow pages.
From Bintulu: Syarikat Bas Suria has a regular
bus service to Batu Niah from Bintulu Bus
Station. The journey time is 2 hrs. Share
taxis from the Bus Station are available,
as are regular taxis, which can usually be
chartered on a daily basis. Self-drive cars
are also available - ask at your hotel counter
or check in the yellow pages.
From Batu Niah to the Park Headquarters:
the Park HQ is about 3 km from Batu Niah.
Chartered taxis and tour buses will take
you straight there, but if you arrive by
bus or share taxi, you have three choices.
A motorised longboat from Batu Niah to the
Park HQ brings you through delightful jungle
scenery. A taxi from Batu Niah is not so
interesting but a good idea if it is raining.
If you are not too heavily burdened with
luggage, the Park HQ is a pleasant 45 minute
stroll along the river bank.
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| Accommodation |
Accommodation facilities consist of chalets
units and hostel-style rooms, all with electricity
and hot showers. Unlike some of the other parks
there are no cooking facilities. Please contact
the National Parks Booking Office in Miri for
the latest room rates and to make reservations.
If you need to stay in Batu Niah (to catch
an early bus, for example), there are a range
of lodging houses and small hotels. Batu Niah
is a bustling little township and is well provided
with coffee shops and restaurants.
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